Mole and Merlot- Lazy Sunday in Wine Country


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When I was a kid I use to look forward to Sunday Mornings. That was the time we would all gather around to watch Charles Kuralt and his show On the Road. Something about a bowl of warm oatmeal, one-piece jammies and a grainy, pre-cable broadcast made me feel happy and safe. I still flash to images of a Winnebago rolling over a creaky wooden bridge, kids on sleighs, melting icicles, flowers blooming and horse drawn carriages somewhere in the Pennsylvania countryside. We were by no stretch a Norman Rockwell painting. More like characters from Married with Children. Instant coffee, cigarettes, hair pulling, neighbor bashing and crude jokes. But we were a family and gosh darn it we loved being together watching quality TV!

I bring up the show On the Road and the imagery that it evokes because it’s a good parallel to my story. Lazy Sunday in wine country was an outing that gave me and a few our friend’s adult warm and fuzzies much like the program did. The oatmeal was replaced by grilled mole chicken tacos and wine was our sleigh ride to giddiness. And after a few glasses, even the cats roaming the farm became the horses … Rockwell became Alice in Wonderland? Ok, just turn me off.. I don’t even know where I’m going with this.

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Anyway where were we… oh yes, the trip…It all started with an invitation from our favorite-in-the-whole-wide-world winery Medlock Ames. They invited their wine club members and industry friends up to their vineyard for an afternoon of pruning classes and wine tasting. It was an opportunity to get a hands-on feel for what it’s like to grow grapes and talk to the wine maker about process. So early on that Sunday morning a group of us jumped in the minivan and took off on our journey to Chalk Hill Sonoma. It was an early Spring morning car ride that sang “over the bridge and through the woods to grannies winery we go”… I mean I wish you the reader could have been with us to experience the pool full of sensory explosions all around us. Narrow one lane roads shrouded in foliage, the smells of spring onions, damp earth, people in their yards doing chores and farm trucks clogging the lanes.. Priceless!

When we arrived at the winery the class had already begun so we tromped out into the fields, grabbed a pair of shears and followed instructions from the master pruner. There were a bunch of folks in between the vines clipping away. For the most part it didn’t seem that hard and I was joking around with Alfredo about how I could join the crew. He gave me a friendly punch in the arm and said he would see me at 4 AM on Monday. Then he proceeded at lightning speed to prune 12 feet of vines in no time flat. I respectfully quit before I began my new job. Ha!

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After about an hour in the fields, we all went back to the winery where the grill was smoking and wine was being poured. We had an opportunity to do a tour of the facility and see all the space age-looking tools they use to make wine. Pretty cool stuff. Modern wine making seems a blend of old and new world technology. Medlock Ames is a small producer that takes time and care to produce wines with a big punch. For example their merlot, regardless of that stupid movie, breaks all the stereotypes and kicks out some AMAZING flavor. Good fruit, mild acid and a wonderful mouth feel.

So check this out. Alfredo’s wife made some mole which was being basted on the chicken. I’m thinking what an odd match with wine. But why? Slightly bitter chocolate, chili, nuts seeds and raisins. OHMYGOD. It was awesome! So awesome that we all sat in the sun and melted like icicles devouring tacos and sipping juice while the sun hovered over us making shadows on the warm ground. It was pure heaven I tell you. One of those experiences in life that you don’t soon forget.

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The rest of the day was pretty uneventful; the car ride home was smooth and none of us really said much. We rolled over the golden gate bridge, took in the fog and spectacular views and were grateful for living in such a magnificent area. Home. Ain’t it wonderful.

Chicken Mole
Ingredients

3 small chickens, cut 8 ways
About 12 cups of chicken stock
5 chipotle chiles
10 ancho chiles
¼ cup raisins
1 large red bell pepper, roasted, skin removed
1 cup sesame seeds
3 cups vegetable oil
¼ of a baguette, sliced
¾ cup peanuts, toasted
¼ cup almonds, toasted
4 ounces dark chocolate, melted
1 stick of Mexican cinnamon, toasted
3 tomatoes
6 cloves garlic
6 tomatillos
1” ginger, chopped
1 onion, quartered
4 ounces piloncillo (jaggery, palm sugar, or brown sugar can be substituted)

Special Equipment
Grill
Cast iron skillet
Stainless steel saucepan with fitted lid
Blender
Large pot for steaming

Instructions
In a heavy skillet slowly toast the sesame seeds to golden brown and cool. Reserve a little sesame seeds for garnish. Toast the chiles over medium heat in the skillet until they begin to slightly darken. Remove from pan and pour 1 cup of oil in the pan. Fry the toasted chiles in the oil for about 3 minutes over medium heat. Combine the sesame seeds, roasted red pepper and fried chiles in a large bowl. Add a little more oil to the skillet and fry the ginger, garlic, tomatillos, tomatoes, raisins and onion until the tomatoes are charred and the onion is soft and begins to brown. Drain the oil and discard. Combine the tomato/ raisin mixture with the toasted nuts, the baguette and the melted chocolate along with the chilies mixture. Process in a blender with chicken stock and strain. Heat a large stockpot and add 1 ½ cups of oil. When hot, fry the strained sauce and simmer. Be careful when adding the sauce to the hot oil. Add the piloncillo to the simmering sauce and adjust the viscosity of the sauce by adding more chicken stock as needed. Place chicken on hot grill. Brush with mole. Grill until cooked all the way. The breast and thigh will take longer than the leg and wing. Chop meat and serve with fresh warm tortillas and grilled spring onions.

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15 Comments »

  1. Superb! Loved the grill shot and it is making me crave that mole again…wonderful stuff. Thanks for coming up and having fun – it is always a pleasure to see you guys and next time we need to really get ‘hands on’ and start cooking with you.

    Comment by Kenneth — April 6, 2009 @ 5:39 pm

  2. Now that it’s raining again in SF, it’s nice to think of that lovely, sunny, Sonoma day! Isabel brought us two jars of delicious mole (from Puebla, I think). It’s a short cut, but much better than the jarred stuff you can buy here in the states. I’d love to learn to make it from scratch.

    Comment by Sarah — April 7, 2009 @ 12:00 pm

  3. Stephen, great post..makes me want to check out Medlock Ames. I love how they personalize the experience. It’s on my list for the next trip to Sonoma. Oh yeah,I can totally visualize you in those childhood memories, …totally “Married with Children”!

    Comment by Jennifer — April 7, 2009 @ 12:02 pm

  4. The recipe sounds divine and, as always, the photos on your blog make me hungry.

    Comment by Heather — April 7, 2009 @ 12:15 pm

  5. WOW! what a great post.I felt that I was in the vineyard and in the mini van with the group. The chicken is making me drool. I’m going to find a Puebla style restaurant today! yum..

    Comment by Lucy — April 7, 2009 @ 2:47 pm

  6. I heard soft music playing in my mind as I read this post. You set the scene and whet my appetite for the experience and the food….

    Comment by Caroline — April 7, 2009 @ 4:25 pm

  7. you had me at taco

    Comment by EB — April 7, 2009 @ 7:39 pm

  8. Mole and merlot makes my mouth happy! What a great combo. And ps…merlot IS the new pinot. You heard it here first…

    Comment by Frances — April 9, 2009 @ 5:11 pm

  9. What gorgeous photos. I actually felt more relaxed after reading this.

    Glad I found your blog. I will definitely keep checking for updates.

    Comment by Mel @ bouchonfor2.com — April 12, 2009 @ 4:53 am

  10. As always, Stephens prose and photographs include the reader in his experience..
    Next time we come to SF..take me there!

    Comment by suzanne fuller — April 12, 2009 @ 11:30 am

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    Pingback by Curtain Down. Start the Show. » Blog Archive » Quick scan of the net - vine pruner — April 17, 2009 @ 1:45 pm

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    Pingback by Curtain Down. Start the Show. » Blog Archive » Quick scan of the net - vine pruner — April 19, 2009 @ 1:22 pm

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  15. Wow! Great information, please keep writing more

    Comment by Wine Making Pro — January 22, 2011 @ 11:23 am

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